Day 69 - Kochi, Japan

Friday 16th March 2018

Kochi is a cosmopolitan, vibrant modern city with friendly people.  Located on the Island of Shikoku, with easy access to the sea and mountains, there are sweeping beaches, hidden temples, botanical gardens and a hilltop castle, trendy malls and bustling palm-lined arcades of Kochi downtown.  Katsurahama Beach is one of the most popular spots in Kochi and is ranked in the top 100 beaches in Japan, a crescent-shaped beach, framed by rocky capes and Japanese pines. 

Kochi Castle that was built following the battle of Sekigahara in 1600. An impressive ‘donjon’ (main tower), the splendid ‘Otemon Gate’ and the ‘honmaru’ (ring of defence), which remain as originally constructed, the beautifully restored Tsumemon Gate and the castle grounds, now a popular public park, dotted with magnificent statues of the Yamanouchi family.

Hirome Ichiba Market, an indoor market with a Latin atmosphere ful of restaurantds and food stalls.  The most famous dish is Katsuo Tataki, lightly seared and seasoned tuna.

The Chikurin-ji Temple is a Shingon temple that is said to have been founded in the early 8th century and forms part of the Shikokuk 88 temple pilgrimage, Japan’s most famous pilgrimage route. The temple grounds feature an interesting array of halls and structures, including a beautiful pagoda. A treasure hall displays several Buddhist statues and scrolls of importance to the temple, and the hondo (main hall) offers a view of the building's interior and a nicely kept garden.

Not quite so much of a rush this morning but still that darn alarm and again people out in the rain watching our arrival.

Docked in Kochi this morning, and it’s overcast and raining.  Not at all our usual luck with the weather.

Still you get what you get, so onto the bus for our tour, first stop at Katsurahama Beach.  Not beach weather, sand very coarse and nasty currents in the sea preventing any option for swimming.  However beach quite picturesque even in the rain and a very quick paddle in the shallows had to suffice.

Next moved on to Kochi Castle, a more original castle than most in Japan, most of the others burnt down before or during World War 2.

The defensive walls being stonework but the central towers all being constructed of timber.

Luckily it had stopped raining by now but still overcast and definitely cooler.  Climbed up the very high steps and steep stairways in the tower for great views.  Back to ground level to watch a demonstration of swordsmanship with Samurai Swords, seriously sharp!

Back into town to visit the local market for lunch.  Not  much market but lots of food stalls selling some very odd looking food.  The walk back through the town saw this amazing building with sculptured trees and air plants growing on the branches.  Japanese surround their homes with very small gardens, beautifully tended with the trees trimmed to fit.

So back to the bus to move on to Chikurin-ji Temple.

This is a Buddhist Temple.  The entrance gate guarded by a couple of very fierce looking statues.

Inside the temple area an impressive five storied Pagoda and some surrounding buildings and shrines.

All the Buddha’s here seemed to be wearing red wooly jumpers and hats, don’t blame then it was pretty cool here.

Back to the ship for recovery and sustenance.

Sailaway entertainment provided by the port consisted of an orchestra, then a lady  singing and playing a traditional stringed instrument (sorry name unknown) and then a troupe of very energetic dancers, they are all very happy to see us and to encourage return visits, again a lot of people came to watch the ship sail away.  Time for dinner whilst a very promising sunset glowed in the sky.

Day 68 - Osaka, Japan

Thursday 15th March 2018

Osaka has a population of 2.6 million, it is located on the Southern coast of western Honshu, the largest of the four main Japanese islands.

Osaka first gained prominence when Toyotomi Hideyoshi, a well known warlord, built Japan’s most magnificent castle here in the 16th century. Osaka Castle was destroyed by a series of fires throughout the ages. The present structure dates from 1931, and although not as large as the original, this is still one of Japan’s most famous castles.

The Shinto shrine of Sumiyoshi Taisha is the headquarters of over 2,000 Sumiyoshi-sha Shrines nationwide. Over three million people visit this shrine at the beginning of a new year, and it is widely respected as the home of the guardian deity of sailors.

A very early start again!  Osaka is laying on all sorts of events for the benefit of the Queen Elizabeth.

First on is a very pretty coloured water spray by a fire boat tug as we sailed in, this again as the rising sun glowed in a rather murky sky.

Then on the pier where we were berthing, an energetic brass band gave us a welcome show, with a large group of spectators watching our arrival.

Today we are on tour, so joined our group, boarded the bus and set off through the city, by now the sun had come out and so we were blessed with a good day.

First stop at the Sumigashi Taishia Shrine.

A Shinto Shrine area with many shrines designated for the worship of different deities, all sorts of religious rights carried on here requesting blessings and wishes from good luck in all areas of human life and death.

The whole site had a peaceful feel and the buildings, bridges, shrines and grounds all very well kept.

Many colourful banners and strings of origami cranes all around.

The Japanese are pretty much all born into the worshiping of Shintoism, mainly for the happy aspects of life, birth, marriage, etc.  Alongside this most are Buddhist, by personal choice, mainly for the less happy aspects such as death and burial.

Back on the bus we set off for Osaka Castle.   A large park surrounds the castle, with multiple moats and many defensive walls and gates.  

Making our way to the central tower, or Donjon, climbed up to the top floor, a couple of hundred steps, for amazing views over the park and the city.

The floors below each contained museum exhibits relating to the history of the castle.

Not enough time to appreciate as the tour schedule didn’t allow any where near enough.

Back to ship for a short break and a cuppa.

Then out into the town, first stop just by the ship a small shopping centre where a ceremony by the Port Authority welcomed the Queen Elizabeth, in the person of the Captain and her Officers, all involving lots of speeches, gift giving and the opening and drinking of a barrel of Sake, lucky we’re not due to sail till late tonight.

Captain and deputy Captain 

Model of Queen Elizabeth made from Lego

Investigated the area near the ship and took a ride on the giant Ferris Wheel for views over the ship and the city, wheel about 100m across.

Back on ship to catch the Shinto Dragon Dance ceremony to bless  and to bring good luck to the remainder of the voyage and the passengers.

After it got dark, off ashore again to ride the Ferris Wheel to see the lights.

The Ferris Wheel itself putting on a spectacular light show.

This was best seen from the ground, so spent a long time just being amazed by the clever images produced by the lights and continued to be entertained through a late dinner, with again lots of people watching our departure with waving torches.

Soon time for bed.

Day 67 - at Sea

Wednesday 14th March 2018

Needed this day at sea to recover from yesterday’s busy day and to prepare for the upcoming run of busy port days.

Usual amusements, weather very pleasant if a little cooler.  Time to catch up with diary etc.

Dinner tonight in the main restaurant.

Big changes in the passengers tomorrow, about 900 disembarking, mainly to be replaced with Japanese passengers.  So lots of cases out in the corridors this evening.

Early to bed early to rise - Osaka tomorrow.

Day 66 - Naha, Okinawa, Japan

Tuesday 13th March 2018

Okinawa is Japan's southernmost region, consisting of small islands in the southern half of the Nansei Shoto, the island chain which stretches from Kyushu to Taiwan. Okinawans retain their own language and culture.  The key Naha cultural sight of is Shurijo Castle, a UNESCO Heritage site, the seat of power during the 500-year reign of the Ryukyuan Kingdom. Destroyed in World War II and rebuilt in 1992, the castle’s hilltop location provides gorgeous views over the city.

Seriously early start today, 05.30, well before dawn, and I thought this was a holiday.

During breakfast a bright red sun rose above the skyline of the city, very apt for the rising sun to show itself here in “the land of the rising sun”.

Short delays while we went through the formalities of Japanese immigration etc and then joined our tour bus.

Away through the city to Shurijo Castle.  Hilltop position, multiple defensive walls and gates surrounding the central buildings.  

Early morning visit and low sun angles made for difficult photography and blue skies only showed up when looking in the right direction.  All day stayed warm and sunny.

Followed our guide up through the castle and into the main hall, the Seiden, and the two side halls

All an interesting museum full of art works, examples of traditionally constructed timber and rice paper screened rooms with tatami mats and  all opening out onto calming gardens for the accommodation of the royals.

No shoes in the main halls and no photos for a large part of the interiors.

The beautifully decorated throne room and models showing the ceremonial use of the courtyard and halls when in use by the local kings.

All reconstructions as everything so badly damaged or destroyed in WW2.  Imposing defensive walls and gates, plus shrines.

Back on the bus to get to our second stop at Kokusai Dori, the main shopping street, the adjacent Makishi Market and a local craft centre.

The street full of all sorts of shops, souvenir shops, restaurants, designer labels, etc.

The market a real mixture of shops/stalls selling pretty much everything imaginable plus all sorts of food stuffs, notably pork, they are famous for eating every part of the pig hereabouts, and a wide variety of fish, all sorts of colours and types.

The local crafts area contained very smart handmade glassware, pottery, etc.

Then back on the bus to return to the ship.  The traditional homes along the way frequently had a pair of lions on their roofs.  Believed to give protection to the home.

These represent a female and male lion

Once onboard time for a refreshing drink and a couple of quizzes, a win this afternoon when our usual good score was topped off with a win of the tiebreak, for once,   then time to sit out on deck in the sun until sailaway.

At sailaway we were entertained by the locals on the quayside with a demonstration of traditional drumming, very good.

As usual the sailaway clashed with our dinner time in the main restaurant so it was the buffet again, lucky the buffet is so good.

Days 61, 62, 63, 64 & 65 - at Sea

Thursday 8th to 12th March 2018

Thursday

Heading roughly north towards Okinawa.

More empty sea, still hot and steamy with passing showers.

Crossed the equator again today, another ceremony this afternoon for those who have never crossed before.

Mainly just enjoyed the sun and the ship’s entertainments.

Friday

Our second day at sea of five on this long run to Japan.

Not much to report other than a rare sighting of a few dolphins just enough to keep us on the lookout.

While there is so little I will add a few thoughts about the passengers.  It has been interesting and noticeable how the make up of nationalities has changed as the legs of the voyage go by and how this impacts on the feel and procedures of ship life.

The first leg was mainly British with a fair few Europeans and Americans.  After our Atlantic US ports many more rather brash Americans joined us.  Then in San Francisco we were joined by the first contingent of Australians and the bulk of British had left.  In New Zealand and Australia the Americans thinned out and more very loud Australians joined, many of them for just a few days between Sydney and Brisbane, it felt a bit like a ferry on the way to a stag/hen party!  After Brisbane many more very polite Japanese joined us, to the extent that announcements were now in three languages, English, German and Japanese.  The breakfast buffet now also featured new items such as miso soup, sticky rice, pickled gherkin and pickled plums.  Those few real world voyagers faces get more and more familiar as the days go by.  Looking forward to see what happens next.

Saturday

Third day at sea, can’t quite believe just how much empty ocean there is around here, just one island on the horizon the only land in sight for days.  Weather continues very hot with strong sunlight  though slightly less humid today.  It’s getting to be a habit lately for us to only just miss out on winning the trivia, very frustrating.

Today we are passing over the area of the Marianas Trench, the  area of the greatest ocean depths, our track passes over sea about 9000 meters deep, the greatest depths being nearby in the Challenger Deep, being over 11000 meters deep.

Sunday

Fourth day at sea, still moving north.

Big trouble today, there is a leaking pipe this morning, all the water shut off.  Amazing how many normally smoothly running systems have been impacted, having trouble getting morning coffee and the buffet is running out of crockery, dishwashers are out of action.  Disaster!  Maintenance crew having trouble finding the leak, isolating it and fixing it!

Weather also more cloudy, seas a bit rougher and occasional showers about.  Air temperature falling, already way down at 24 centigrade.

Captain's Table in the Britannia Restaurant

Enjoyed this morning’s insight lecture by Dr Helen Doe about Admiral Rainier and his posting to the far east station during the Napoleonic War.  We have previously seen her giving lectures on other nautical subjects, such as Nelson’s Navy and shipbuilding in Polruan, Cornwall.

Monday

Fifth day at sea.

Usual start to the day.  Then a novel plan, we actually went for a light lunch.  Followed this with attending the wine tasting, first time I managed to get to this, just never before fitted this in, far too busy!

Most of the day enjoying the sun before we get too far north and the weather cools.

Dinner tonight in the buffet, Mexican theme, all our favourites, delicious.  Then off to the World Cruise Cocktail Party for a couple of drinks, a short address by Captain Inger Klein Thorhauge.  Buffet table loaded with tasty goodies, ice sculptures and the same old World Cruise beautifully decorated cake.  Shame we couldn’t take advantage just after dinner, except for a couple of chocolate dipped strawberries.

Clocks back again tonight to get to Japanese time.

Day 60 - Rabaul, Papua New Guinea

Wednesday 7th March 2018

New Guinea, a group of 600 islands, atolls and reefs with a population of 8 million, the closest point to Australia is only 160 miles away.  The largest of Papua New Guinea’s beautiful off shore islands is East New Britain province where lies the township of Rabaul.

During World War II the island was occupied by the Japanese, who made their mark on the island with their network of tunnels designed to hide their military vessels and it was therefore heavily bombed by the allies.

The town is surrounded with three volcanoes and has been devastated by eruptions and is frequently covered with ash.  Most recently by a major eruption of Mount Tavurvur in 1994 and closely followed by the eruption of Mount Vulcan.  Smoke and ash from the volcanoes are often visible, but life goes on regardless.

Early morning sail-in again today. Very hot and steamy already.

The bay, Simpson’s Harbour, surrounded with volcanoes, one of which looks like black ash and still steaming from the caldera, the others covered with vegetation.

Berthed at the town of Rabaul which was not as primitive nor as dust covered as we were advised in the port guide.  

So we went ashore after breakfast to view the souvenirs on offer along the street by the locals.  Really not much else to see anywhere near the ship and much too hot and steamy to go too far.  Just interesting to see and meet the locals and to actually set foot on such an unusual and remote place.

Spent the remainder of the day on board the ship.  Some passing heavy showers just to keep things interesting.

Sailaway just about at dusk, more good views of the volcanoes and more showers.

Days 57, 58 and 59 - at Sea

Sunday to Tuesday 4th to 6th March 2018

Sunday

Heading north on our way to Rabaul, New Guinea. 

Partly cloudy, very hot, humid and strong sun.

Spent the day in and out of the shade, taking care not to get too much sun whilst taking advantage of the very nice weather.

Short detour towards the coast for an emergency helicopter medical evacuation and then back on course.

Monday

Much of the same sort of sea day, still not much wildlife except a few flying fish and gannet type seabirds following the ship, one highlight today was spotting a Marlin or some very similar sport fish.

Tuesday

Bit more cloud today and if anything even hotter and more humid.  Stayed inside most of the day, morning trivia which we almost won and afternoon music trivia where we were not very good.

Showers around, one passing over the ship during the afternoon,  very heavy rain.

Went to the theatre this evening to see Bernie Flint, songs and laughs, he won Opportunity Knocks 12 weeks running in 1977, and he’s never looked back!