Day 40 - Puerto Madryn, Argentina


Tuesday 18th Feb 2020

Puerto Madryn is an Argentine city on the coast of northern Patagonia. Its sandy beaches and restaurant-lined promenade face Golfo Nuevo bay, where southern right whales breed from May to December. The town is home to a large Aluminium smelting plant, a large fishing fleet and is a major tourist destination, the population is around 100,000.
Here in 1865 the Mimosa landed 153 welsh settlers, they soon moved down the coast to find fresh water, there being none here.  Across the bay, rocky Peninsula Valdes is home to penguins and elephant seals, which are preyed on by orcas.

A crack of dawn start today, and I mean crack of dawn!
Then it’s onto the coach, luckily not too bad a coach, for a very long drive to the Peninsula Valdes.  The days drive being about 400 Km all told and we found that as the journey proceeded that much of it would be on dirt roads, well thats mostly stones and dust!
The peninsula is mostly now a wildlife preserve, even if it is also home to extensive Marino sheep estancias (farms).


Elegant Crested Tinamou


First stop was at the Visitor Centre for an introduction to the reserve with its 180 degree viewing platform giving views out to both sides of the isthmus over Golfo Nuevo and Golfo San Jose.



Patagonian Mockingbird

Then it’s on down the road looking out for wildlife.  Mostly only lots of Guanacos, they look basically very like a Llama.


Guanaco

We managed to also spot Mara, just a big rodent looking somewhat like a rabbit, and Patagonian Owls, a small burrowing owl, there being no trees on the peninsula.



Mara at a distance


Patagonian Owl

Next stop to view the Magellanic Penguins.  Much like most of the wildlife expected on this trip they are at the end of their breeding season so lesser numbers than at peak times.






On again to see the Elephant Seals.



An additional entertainment here being Hairy Armadillos in the car park.


On again to view the Sealions on an offshore gravel spit.


Then it’s just the 90 minute drive back to the ship.



Walk back along the pier to see the sealions hauled out on the bulbous bow of the ship.  These the best views of the sealions to be had all day!



South American Terns




Time to relax and enjoy the sailaway.


Soon after 5.30pm we sailed for Ushuaia, a distance of 1012.2 nautical miles.

Days 38 to 39 - at Sea


Sunday 16th February 2020

Lovely and Sunny
New activity for us today, Photo Scavenger Hunt, an interesting pastime to find locations of photos taken by the Entertainment staff and take a selfie.  Certainly makes you notice little details of the ship’s decoration.
Dolphin sighting this afternoon.




Monday 17th February 2020

Lots of lightning overnight, spectacular.

A beautiful sunny start to the day, soon clouded up and more thunder and lightning and rain during the morning.

Bit of sun during the afternoon but soon clouded up again.

Temperatures only about 18 degrees today, almost chilly.  Forecast for tomorrow much better.

Days 36 to 37 - Buenos Aries, Argentina (overnight)


Friday 14th Feb 2020

Buenos Aires, the Paris of South America is Argentina’s big, cosmopolitan capital city on the western shore of the River Plate.  Its centre is the Plaza de Mayo, lined with stately 19th-century buildings.  The metropolitan area of the city has a population of 13 million, more than one third of the whole country.  The inhabitants are known as Portenos, people of the port.

Short overnight run from Montevideo to todays berth in Buenos Aries.




Hot day coming up.  Spent the morning on board, mostly just in the sun with added trivia.
Early afternoon joined coach for a tour of the town.
First impression is that it’s just another big city, could almost be anywhere in the world.  The layout is based on Paris with wide boulevards, very wide, multiple traffic lanes, up to about 26, plus wide green verges, cycle lanes and pavements.  



9th July Boulevard the most spectacular, others less so.  Lots of open green spaces and parks with many statues and monuments and lots of colourful flowering trees, notably one called the drunken tree because of its shape which has very pretty pink flowers.


Evita statue located where she died in the now demolished Presidential Palace 


First stop in the unique Recoleta neighbourhood, here is the city's aristocratic cemetery.  The wealthy of the city have built extremely elaborate mausoleums  for their family burials, each vying with the others.  



The part above ground just for decoration, the actual burials in vaults below, coffins placed on shelves, so vaults down to 20 metres below ground level.  

The Duarte family tomb contains the final resting place of Evita Peron.



It’s a long story to explain why, but the short version is that Duarte was her birth family and her husband President Juan Peron was caught up in various political disagreements and he was buried elsewhere and her body was moved around the world like a pawn by his successors for many years until her final stop here.

Moving on to the Plaza de Mayo, pronounced something like masho  for some reason hereabouts.  Here are the Metropolitan Cathedral (the current Pope was Bishop here) with the mausoleum of San Martin, the building where the independence revolution started, the Colonial Town Hall and the Casa Rosada.


Cathedral


This is where the independence revolution started


Casa Rosada

The balcony of the Casa Rosado was used by Madonna in the film Evita as the setting for her to sing “Don’t Cry For me Argentina”.  Views down one boulevard of the Obelisk commemorating 100 years of the first national government.




Continuing on to view various parts of the city, both wealthy and much less so parts.  Many large colonial properties now used as embassies for the nations of the world.  One notable area very popular with the tourists contains the Caminito located in colourful La Boca.  




Boca Juniors being one of Buenos Aries famous football teams, the properties around their stadium all being painted Blue and Gold to match the team colours.  The Caminito is a part of the city where Italian immigrants settled.  Their homes being built from anything going spare, so it’s a jumble of recycled timber and corrugated metal all painted in a multitude of bright colours, probably whatever was left over!



Back on board for the evening.  Tonights folkloric show being a Tango and Gaucho show in the theatre.  An excellent and amazingly professional show.


Saturday 15th February 2020

Today, most of the day spent on board just enjoying shipboard life.
Time soon came to get ready to join the merry throng, of over 600 fellow passengers, on our way to the South American Voyage gala event.
Everyone onto coachers for a short ride through the city to an exhibition ground.  First a short show by some Gauchos showing off their horse riding skills in an open arena.  




Then its inside for tapas and music and dancing, mostly tango, all obviously accompanied by a few drinks.  All very jolly.



Then it’s the return journey in time for the sailaway.


Soon after 8.00pm we sailed for Puerto Madryn, a distance of 696.8 nautical miles.

Day 35 - Montevideo, Uruguay


Thursday 13th Feb 2020


Montevideo, Uruguay’s capital, is a major city along Montevideo Bay, on the northeastern bank of the River Plate which here is the widest river in the world. It revolves around the Plaza de la Independencia, once home to a Spanish citadel. This plaza leads to Ciudad Vieja (the old town), with art deco buildings, colonial homes and landmarks including the towering Palacio Salvo and neoclassical performance hall Solís Theatre.  The city boasts many new skyscraper apartment blocks and some fine beaches which stretch right into the city.
Uruguay’s population is almost all of Spanish and Italian descent and number only about 3 million, half of which live in Montevideo.


This morning berthed in Montevideo, Uruguay.  Perfect weather today, Nice and warm, mid 20’s and should reach low 30’s, but a bit of breeze and certainly less humid now.

The morning spent onboard just enjoying the fairly empty ship, passing our time with some trivia and enjoying some sun.

This afternoon we went on our Montevideo city tour.  Leaving the port area  taking in views of the River Plate, with it’s variously coloured water, which changes depending on how much river water or sea water is in view, through the old town, then to Independence Square, here we had a few minutes off the coach to get photos of the Old Government House, the New  Government House, the Palacio Salvo and the statue of General Artigas.


Old Government Building



Moving on through the commercial district we stopped at the Congress Building for a view inside, well, inside the entrance and vestibule, but not the actual chambers, very smart anyway, mainly constructed of many variously coloured marbles.



Next out into one of many park areas to see the the stage coach monument, the covered wagon monument and the monument to the last of the Charruas Indians.  




The Charruas Indians were the indigenous inhabitants of the area, originally welcoming the Spanish colonists, unfortunately the colonists took the land from the Indians and then lured them to a meeting where they slaughtered them all except a small group who were transported to Europe where they were a live exhibit in a museum, until two died and the other two escaped never to be seen again, not a proud moment for the Uruguayans.



We also had time to view the football stadium used in the first world cup in 1930.  



Then its off to the coast for a short stop at navy park for sea views and to watch the parakeets!




Returning to the ship via the Ramblas, the coast road, to enjoy views over the extensive, and very popular beaches extending all the way into the city.



Just at the entrance to the port is a small monument to naval history including the anchor of the Graf Spee, scuttled after the Battle of the River Plate in late 1939.





Time for as snack and some deck time before sailaway.  Just a relaxing evening to round off the day.

Days 33 to 34 - at Sea


Tuesday 11th February 2020

Oh happy day, back at sea.  Weather much more pleasant, air much fresher and temperatures back to mid 20’s, some scattered clouds.
And so back to our seaday routine.

Itinerary for the latest segment.

Day 32 - Rio De Janeiro
Days 33 and 34 - at Sea
Day 35 - Montevideo, Uruguay
Days 36 and 37 - Buenos Aires, Argentina
Days 38 and 39 - at Sea
Day 40 - Puerto Madryn, Argentina
Day 41 - at Sea
Day 42 - Beagle Channel
Day 43 - Ushuaia, Argentina
Day 44 - Cape Horn, Chile
Day 45 - Magellan Strait and Punta Arenas, Chile
Day 46 - Amelia Glacier
Day 47 - Pio X Glacier
Day 48 - at Sea
Day 49 - Puerto Montt, Chile
Day 50 - at Sea


Wednesday 12th Feb 2020

Bit wet this morning so catching up on all those little jobs, thankfully some blue sky around, still a very pleasant temperature.

It seems to be taking a little longer at each port to clear the official process.  We suspect this is because the authorities are being extra careful with checking that there is no risk of Coronavirus being brought in with the ship’s passengers and crew.  It seems that many cruise ships in the far east have been diverted or refused entry at various ports because of one ship where the virus is onboard and the perceived risk is having knock on effects.  We are especially glad to be on this ship in this part of the globe and not on Queen Mary 2 who has had their itinerary changed and will not be calling at Hong Kong or Singapore, to avoid bringing the virus onboard, and will circumnavigate Australia with extra ports instead.


Days seem to be lengthening as we get further south away from the equator, also makes for much better sunsets.

Days 31 to 32 - Rio De Janeiro, Brazil (overnight)


9th and 10th Feb 2020


Rio de Janeiro is a huge seaside city in Brazil, famed for its Copacabana and Ipanema beaches, Christ the Redeemer statue atop Mount Corcovado and for Sugarloaf Mountain, a granite peak with cable cars to its summit. The city is also known for its sprawling favelas (shanty towns). Its raucous Carnival festival, featuring parade floats, flamboyant costumes and samba dancers.

Rio de Janeiro is everything it is celebrated for, and more. It may not be Brazil’s capital, not since 1960 when Brasilia became the new capital, but it is by far its defining city, commanding non-stop wonder from the moment you set foot on its shores.


Sunday 9th Feb 2020

Day 1 - arrival into Rio de Janeiro, early alarm just to see the sail-in, spectacular coastline, mountains and the buildings of the city.  Already 28 Celsius before 7 am!



View of Sugar Loaf Mountain




Green Island


Museum of Tomorrow

Berthed in the port area nicely between the Museum of Tomorrow and the Aquarium.  The port area with its light railway was redeveloped for the Olympic Games in 2016, work is still ongoing and not quite complete.
As part of our recovery from our rude awakening took a leisurely morning on board.  The highlight of the morning being our first ever proper game and our first ever win at Shuffleboard, will wonders never happen!
Views out over the town, everywhere the very expensive properties and tower blocks just alongside the “favelas”, shanty towns which have sprung up on any piece of awkward land.



A Favela
Then it’s off ashore for the shuttle bus to the Leblon Shopping Centre, this being convenient for a short walk down to Leblon and Ipanema beaches, also close to the lagoon.  Watched the thermometer rise to 37 celsius on the way!  







Lagoon used in the Olympics

Quick look round the shops, nothing attractive, mostly designer labels.  Then off to the beach, only about 400 metres but far enough in the heat.  Beautiful soft sand beach, very popular, and a lovely blue sea.  Sand hot enough to fry eggs on, bit gritty though.  Beach absolutely packed with “cariocas”, as natives of Rio are called, enjoying a day off.







Back to  the shopping centre to get the bus back to the ship.  Nice little ride round town, coming and going, good views of the city, the lagoon and the mountains, notably Sugar Loaf and Corcovado with the Christ the Redeemer statue.

This evening a folkloric show in the theatre by Samba Cervila, presenting a mixed show of the essence of Samba, Gafieira, Carnival and Capoeira.  A  very energetic, colourful if somewhat confusing show, seemed almost more for the entertainment of the performers than the audience, still it was unforgettable as advertised.


Monday 10th Feb 2020

Day 2 - Another early alarm, today to be ready for our excursion.  Rather cloudy today, and a good deal cooler, probably only about 25 degrees and very humid, a threat of rain this afternoon.
Starting with a nice little bus ride through the city.





Our route passing by the fairly recently constructed special road with grandstands built especially for the pre-lenten Carnival parades.  Apparently the numerous Samba groups who compete in the parade for the Carnival each contain up to 4000 members and the parade starts about 8.00 pm and finishes around 6 am next morning, this party goes on for a week.  We also went past the building where the top five Samba groups are provided with a covered space for preparations of floats and for practice, the rest just having to make their own arrangements, quite an incentive to be the best.


Carnival street and Grandstands

Arrived at the station for the cog-railway up Corcovado Mountain, one very steep ride, luckily not much queueing necessary today.  The railway went up through the Tijuca National Forrest,  a large area of forrest right in the city, known as the lungs of the city, extensively used for hiking.




At the end of the railway a short elevator ride and then an escalator ride to the foot of the statue of Christ the Redeemer.  Corcovado Mountain itself being 710 metres high, then the plinth to the statue 8 metres high and the statue 30 metres high and 28 metres from fingertip to fingertip.  Today it’s right up in the clouds, views somewhat obscured, but quite atmospheric.


Looking down at Rio through the clouds



After the ride back down it’s back on the coach for a run down to the seafront and a drive along Leblon, Ipanema and Copacabana Beaches on our way back to the ship.  A good bit quieter today than yesterday, still it’s not the weekend and the weather not sunny!  Some very smart sandcastles decorating the beach.



One interesting fact told to us by our guide, among the myriad facts already forgotten, was that school children attend school either in the morning or the afternoon, this has always been the custom and continues as such for this and for no other reason.  The government provides schools near the favelas and at these there are suggestions that for the poorest workers all day school might be easier to allow for both parents to work without the need for other child care provision.  Later checking with our Brazilian onboard DJ who comes from Sao Paolo he always went to morning school except one period where he went in the afternoon, he didn’t like it and soon changed back.




Afternoon spent on the ship, the weather having intervened with any other possible plans, heavy rain with some thunder, then continuing right through to sailaway.

Day 30 - at Sea


Saturday 8th Feb 2020


Well it’s a day at sea, nuf said.