Day 49 - Puerto Montt, Chile


Thursday 27th Feb 2020

Puerto Montt is a port city in southern Chile’s Lake District, known as a gateway to the Andes mountains and the Patagonian fjords.  Just outside the city lies Calbuco, an active volcano.

Early morning arrival.  Anchorage today, so it’s tender operations.  But, it’s windy and a little rough so all delayed while the Captain considers the safety of the passengers and the ship… and it’s all cancelled.  Everyones early alarms wasted.  Revised daily programme for activities arrived eventually.  So it’s more chances at trivia, darts etc.




Soon after 10.00 am we sailed for San Antonio, a distance of 589 nautical miles.

Days 46 to 48 - at Sea

24th to 26th Feb 2020

Monday 24th Feb 2020

Today sailing through the Chilean Fjords.  Should have been spectacular but clouds very very low and for most of the day a steady rain.  The whole area rather like the Norwegian Fjords, rocky cliffs, a few trees and plenty of waterfalls.  Didn’t appear to be any people nor much wildlife except a few birds.
Arrived at the Amalia Glacier at about 4pm, the glacier, also known as Skua Glacier, a tidewater glacier located in Bernardo O'Higgins National Park on the edge of the Sarmiento Channel. 




The glacier originates in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field.  Weather still poor though views of the glacier still good.  
The water of the fjord has a milky blue/green tinge caused by the fine ground rock suspended in the water, after leaving this soon disappeared further down the fjord.  The ice of the glacier showing that lovely turquoise/blue colouring of highly compressed ice, without air bubbles, despite the lack of good light.  Sadly no good distant views of the Andes behind the glacier.  A couple of hours here pirouetting to give everyone as good a view as possible. 

Tuesday 25th Feb 2020

An early arrival at the Pío XI Glacier, also known as the Brüggen Glacier, is the largest western outflow from the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. 

View as we awoke




Now about 66 km in length, it is the longest glacier in the southern hemisphere outside Antarctica.  Again a couple of hours pirouetting and again weather still low overcast cloud and rain.
Then it’s off again towards the Pacific Ocean. 
Today is Pancake Day, so it’s crepes for lunch, well they are almost pancakes, lemon and sugar accompaniment.  It was going to be pancake races between the different departments of the crew but the inclement weather caused a cancellation, probably too slippery and anyway not conducive for the spectators to stand around watching.
In the late afternoon out into the ocean having traversed the passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific.

Wednesday 26th Feb 2020

A day spent heading north through the Pacific.  The day still overcast but no rain today and also warming up a bit, even a little sun in the afternoon.

This evening the latest South American Voyage cocktail party followed by a show in the theatre “Dance Passion” with the RCTC.

Day 45 - Punta Arenas, Chile


Sunday 23rd Feb 2020


Punta Arenas is a city near the tip of Chile's southernmost Patagonia region. Located on the Strait of Magellan, which connects the Atlantic and Pacific oceans, it's often used as base for excursions to the surrounding wilderness and Antarctica. The Plaza Muñoz Gamero has a memorial to explorer Ferdinand Magellan, and the Museo Nao Victoria features a replica of one of his galleons.

Today it’s a tender port.  Weather not too good this morning, some rain, generally overcast.  So, cancelled our plan to go ashore, there not being much to attract us to join the queue to and from town, just enjoyed the quiet ship.


Today a first for us, we went to lunch in the Britannia restaurant, quite surprise it has taken us so long, perhaps we will try it again in a few years.
Weather cleared up later but early last return tender kept us on board.

Soon after 3.30pm we sailed for Puerto Montt, a distance of 1202 nautical miles.

Day 44 - at Sea


Saturday 22nd Feb 2020

The Magellan Strait a navigable sea route in southern Chile separating mainland South America to the north and Tierra del Fuego to the south. The strait is the most important natural passage between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.  



Overnight returned north through the Atlantic and later entered the Magellan Strait.  Magellan discovery of and first entry into the Straits on 1st November 1520, this now being almost the 500th anniversary.

Sorry not much to report today.  We did manage to spot a couple of Commersons Dolphins, a local speciality, it being a white bodied species with black head fin and tail, very brief views, no photo opportunity.

Day 43 - Ushuaia, Argentina

Friday 21st Feb 2020


Ushuaia is a resort town in Argentina. It's located on the Tierra del Fuego archipelago, the southernmost tip of South America, nicknamed the “End of the World.” The windswept town, perched on a steep hill, is surrounded by the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel. It's the gateway to Antarctica cruises and tours to nearby Isla Yécapasela, known as “Penguin Island” for its penguin colonies.


Overnight we entered the Beagle Channel and arrived at Ushuaia soon after we woke.  Not too early a meet for our tour but still an early start.


Just a short walk along the dock to our catamaran, our transport for the trip down the Beagle Channel.  Plenty of room for the group onboard with seating inside and outside decks for viewing.


The town and the channel both being surrounded with spectacular peaks still with patches of snow.  


Setting off down the channel, the Captain being very careful to stay on the Chilean side of the channel, the Argentinian side being out bounds!  Our first destination, Bird Island, home to numerous Imperial Cormorants, a few sea lions and a lighthouse.  



Imperial Cormorants

All along the route there were many birds of many species flying by, most notably Black-Browed Albatross which are frequent and common hereabouts.



One unusual tourist attraction is the “Rusty Boat”, a ship run aground  and abandoned just near a farm, of which there are a few along the channel, this one now taken over by the Chilean Navy.


Surprisingly a sighting of humpback whales as we headed to the main feature of  the trip.  


This being a headland with a very large colony of breeding Magellanic Penguins together with a fair few Gentu Penguins and one King Penguin with a very small chick, plus various other birds.



Magellanic Penguins 

Gentu Penguins 

King Penguin with a very small chick

Return trip back up the sound didn’t reveal any new viewing opportunities, just a nice sail back, still managed to take quite a few photos anyway.

Drop off, suspiciously, at the far side of all the souvenir shops, so a bit of a walk back to the ship.


Soon after 5.30pm we sailed for Punta Arenas, a distance of 477 nautical miles.

Days 41 to 42 at Sea


Revised Itinerary

Day 41 - at Sea
Day 42 - Cruise by Cape Horn
Day 43 - Beagle Channel and Ushuaia
Day 44 - at Sea and Magellan Strait
Day 45 - Punta Arenas
Back on schedule again!


Wednesday 19th February 2020

Much cooler, much windier, much rougher, proper sea weather, this passes for summer around Cape Horn.


Our southerly course today running against the cold water Falklands Current flowing up the Patagonian coast.

Thursday 20th February 2020

Trivia win - they come few and far between this voyage, too many bright sparks!
Weather rather dull again today.
Late afternoon arrived at Cape Horn.  Ship turned around just near the lighthouse and monument.



Monument to lost sailors of the world, in the form of an Albatros, traditionally  the Albatros embodies the souls of dead sailors.



The lighthouse is manned by a Chilean naval officer with his family, contracts last either one or two years, the current officer has his wife and three children with him, the youngest having been born on the island two months ago.  We then circumnavigated the island.  The Captain sounded the ships horn to mark the southernmost point of our voyage, just 450nm from Elephant Island, part of Antarctica.





We then retraced our route north towards the Beagle Channel.

Day 40 - Puerto Madryn, Argentina


Tuesday 18th Feb 2020

Puerto Madryn is an Argentine city on the coast of northern Patagonia. Its sandy beaches and restaurant-lined promenade face Golfo Nuevo bay, where southern right whales breed from May to December. The town is home to a large Aluminium smelting plant, a large fishing fleet and is a major tourist destination, the population is around 100,000.
Here in 1865 the Mimosa landed 153 welsh settlers, they soon moved down the coast to find fresh water, there being none here.  Across the bay, rocky Peninsula Valdes is home to penguins and elephant seals, which are preyed on by orcas.

A crack of dawn start today, and I mean crack of dawn!
Then it’s onto the coach, luckily not too bad a coach, for a very long drive to the Peninsula Valdes.  The days drive being about 400 Km all told and we found that as the journey proceeded that much of it would be on dirt roads, well thats mostly stones and dust!
The peninsula is mostly now a wildlife preserve, even if it is also home to extensive Marino sheep estancias (farms).


Elegant Crested Tinamou


First stop was at the Visitor Centre for an introduction to the reserve with its 180 degree viewing platform giving views out to both sides of the isthmus over Golfo Nuevo and Golfo San Jose.



Patagonian Mockingbird

Then it’s on down the road looking out for wildlife.  Mostly only lots of Guanacos, they look basically very like a Llama.


Guanaco

We managed to also spot Mara, just a big rodent looking somewhat like a rabbit, and Patagonian Owls, a small burrowing owl, there being no trees on the peninsula.



Mara at a distance


Patagonian Owl

Next stop to view the Magellanic Penguins.  Much like most of the wildlife expected on this trip they are at the end of their breeding season so lesser numbers than at peak times.






On again to see the Elephant Seals.



An additional entertainment here being Hairy Armadillos in the car park.


On again to view the Sealions on an offshore gravel spit.


Then it’s just the 90 minute drive back to the ship.



Walk back along the pier to see the sealions hauled out on the bulbous bow of the ship.  These the best views of the sealions to be had all day!



South American Terns




Time to relax and enjoy the sailaway.


Soon after 5.30pm we sailed for Ushuaia, a distance of 1012.2 nautical miles.

Days 38 to 39 - at Sea


Sunday 16th February 2020

Lovely and Sunny
New activity for us today, Photo Scavenger Hunt, an interesting pastime to find locations of photos taken by the Entertainment staff and take a selfie.  Certainly makes you notice little details of the ship’s decoration.
Dolphin sighting this afternoon.




Monday 17th February 2020

Lots of lightning overnight, spectacular.

A beautiful sunny start to the day, soon clouded up and more thunder and lightning and rain during the morning.

Bit of sun during the afternoon but soon clouded up again.

Temperatures only about 18 degrees today, almost chilly.  Forecast for tomorrow much better.

Days 36 to 37 - Buenos Aries, Argentina (overnight)


Friday 14th Feb 2020

Buenos Aires, the Paris of South America is Argentina’s big, cosmopolitan capital city on the western shore of the River Plate.  Its centre is the Plaza de Mayo, lined with stately 19th-century buildings.  The metropolitan area of the city has a population of 13 million, more than one third of the whole country.  The inhabitants are known as Portenos, people of the port.

Short overnight run from Montevideo to todays berth in Buenos Aries.




Hot day coming up.  Spent the morning on board, mostly just in the sun with added trivia.
Early afternoon joined coach for a tour of the town.
First impression is that it’s just another big city, could almost be anywhere in the world.  The layout is based on Paris with wide boulevards, very wide, multiple traffic lanes, up to about 26, plus wide green verges, cycle lanes and pavements.  



9th July Boulevard the most spectacular, others less so.  Lots of open green spaces and parks with many statues and monuments and lots of colourful flowering trees, notably one called the drunken tree because of its shape which has very pretty pink flowers.


Evita statue located where she died in the now demolished Presidential Palace 


First stop in the unique Recoleta neighbourhood, here is the city's aristocratic cemetery.  The wealthy of the city have built extremely elaborate mausoleums  for their family burials, each vying with the others.  



The part above ground just for decoration, the actual burials in vaults below, coffins placed on shelves, so vaults down to 20 metres below ground level.  

The Duarte family tomb contains the final resting place of Evita Peron.



It’s a long story to explain why, but the short version is that Duarte was her birth family and her husband President Juan Peron was caught up in various political disagreements and he was buried elsewhere and her body was moved around the world like a pawn by his successors for many years until her final stop here.

Moving on to the Plaza de Mayo, pronounced something like masho  for some reason hereabouts.  Here are the Metropolitan Cathedral (the current Pope was Bishop here) with the mausoleum of San Martin, the building where the independence revolution started, the Colonial Town Hall and the Casa Rosada.


Cathedral


This is where the independence revolution started


Casa Rosada

The balcony of the Casa Rosado was used by Madonna in the film Evita as the setting for her to sing “Don’t Cry For me Argentina”.  Views down one boulevard of the Obelisk commemorating 100 years of the first national government.




Continuing on to view various parts of the city, both wealthy and much less so parts.  Many large colonial properties now used as embassies for the nations of the world.  One notable area very popular with the tourists contains the Caminito located in colourful La Boca.  




Boca Juniors being one of Buenos Aries famous football teams, the properties around their stadium all being painted Blue and Gold to match the team colours.  The Caminito is a part of the city where Italian immigrants settled.  Their homes being built from anything going spare, so it’s a jumble of recycled timber and corrugated metal all painted in a multitude of bright colours, probably whatever was left over!



Back on board for the evening.  Tonights folkloric show being a Tango and Gaucho show in the theatre.  An excellent and amazingly professional show.


Saturday 15th February 2020

Today, most of the day spent on board just enjoying shipboard life.
Time soon came to get ready to join the merry throng, of over 600 fellow passengers, on our way to the South American Voyage gala event.
Everyone onto coachers for a short ride through the city to an exhibition ground.  First a short show by some Gauchos showing off their horse riding skills in an open arena.  




Then its inside for tapas and music and dancing, mostly tango, all obviously accompanied by a few drinks.  All very jolly.



Then it’s the return journey in time for the sailaway.


Soon after 8.00pm we sailed for Puerto Madryn, a distance of 696.8 nautical miles.