Friday 31st Jan 2020
Manaus sits on the banks of the Negro River in northwestern Brazil, it is the capital of the vast state of Amazonas and a major departure point for the surrounding Amazon Rainforest. At almost a thousand miles from the sea it is still only about 150 feet above sea level.
The rubber boomtown of Manaus grew rapidly as the vast profits from the supplying of rubber to the world allowed it to have a tram system, become the first Brazilian city to have electricity and to build its own opera house. This all ended in 1914. Rubber trees having been transported to southeast Asia where rubber was produced in greater volume and much more cheaply. Manaus relapsed into obscurity, apart from a very brief recovery during WW2, until 1967 when it was declared a free zone, the population has since grown from about 300,000 to 2.1 million.
This morning approaching Manaus, just east of the city the dark Negro River converges with the muddy brown Solimões River resulting in a striking visual phenomenon called the “Meeting of the Waters.”
A very civilised start to the day, not too early a meeting time for our city tour. First to the Art Nouveau-style Municipal Market, that’s the fish market, interesting, lots of unusual fish, I don’t think they have fish like trout in the Amazon, Piranha doesn’t have quite the same appeal.
Most of the locals find fish to be the cheapest option to provide protein in their diet.
Outside to view the harbour, lots of river ferry boats many with hammocks for longer journeys, many people coming and going from the boats with all sorts of possessions for transport, even a divan bed!
Also here the local fishing boats tie up supplying (and selling) the fish.
On through the general market to the vegetable market, more recognisable produce here, though some extras like palm fruit (apparently they taste like potatoes) and some very prickly looking strawberry like fruit.
Back on the coach and up to the Indian Museum, here several rooms displaying aspects of Amazonian Indian culture, lifestyle and traditions. All sorts of exhibits here, from archeological pottery through feathered head dresses to blowpipes and woven baskets etc. Simple materials used ingeniously and skillfully, still used today by the remaining indigenous tribes remaining in the forrest who continue to have no contact with modern civilisation.
Next to the 600 seat Opera House, the ‘Teatro Amazonas’ completed in 1896, partly paid for by subscription by the wealthy locals. The square in front decorated in black and white tiles, reminiscent of the Azores, also Portuguese.
The majority of the materials used imported from Europe, mostly GB, France and Italy. Iron columns from Scotland, glass chandeliers from Murano and painted ceilings form France, etc. etc. Very clever design and location to take advantage of the wind from the Atlantic which blows up river to the Andes funnelled through ducts below the floor to provide a cooling draught coming up below the seats.
Back to the port taking in views of the city and it’s Cathedral.
Time in the afternoon for some recovery in the sun. One more afternoon trivia, our first win!
This evenings folkloric entertainment provided by a local group, the ”Raizes Caboclas Group”,playing and dancing a typical Amazonian show.
Overnight in port to allow folk who wanted to to go to an evening performance in the Opera House.
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