Thursday, 28th March 2019
Salalah is the capital and largest city of the southern Omani Governorate of Dhofar in the South of Oman. Its population in 2009 was about 197,169. It’s also the second-largest city in the Sulanate of Oman. Salalah is the birthplace of the current Sultan, Quaboos bin Said. Salalah attracts many people from other parts of Oman and the Persian Gulf Region during the monsoon/khareef season, which spans from July to September. The climate of the region and the monsoon allows the city to grow vegetables and fruits like coconut and bananas. There are many gardens within the city where these grow. Salalah is famous for its ancient frankincense trade, with the UNESCO including several ancient settlements (Al Balid, Sumharam, Shisr and Wadi Dawkah) in Dhofar in its World Heritage List, appropriately naming it the “Land of Frankincense’. Thousands of years later, Salalah is still well known for the quality of frankincense it produces.
General facts
Oman is slightly larger in area than Italy, but has a population of just over 2 1/4 million.
The average population density is 2.86 persons per square mile, compared to 91.1 in the UK.
This is our first port visit as our cruise gets going.
Our ship was docked in the commercial area so shuttle buses were provided to the dock gate for those passengers not on organised trips, plus $40 to town each way for a taxi.
The Alarm was needed for our morning trip - ‘Contrasts of Salalah’. Looked like it was going to be a hot sunny day coming up. Breakfast followed by meeting up for our tour. Soon we were on our bus travelling through the desert landscape. Saw our first of many camels wandering around, Camels always travel in groups and they go where they want, nothing deters them, not new roads, development or traffic. They remain an expensive status symbol, occasionally some specialise in racing, breeders/trainers of winners are made for life.
After about 30 minutes we arrived at our first destination, Ain Razat Springs, “a natural underground spring amidst the tranquil lush mountains” overlooked by a cliffside cave.
Well it was more of an alcove in the cliff, but the water was fine with a lot of bright pink and white waterlilies.
This oasis supported many birds, all singing, this is one of the things you notice the lack of at sea, we also saw many large butterflies, all moving too quickly to get a good photo. I guess the area was more significant in a county with little shelter and little water.
Then away to Taqah Castle, a 19th Century castle in a Dhofari town, it was the home of the Wadi, the local administrator and chief. An interesting place, a cross between defensive, administrative and domestic.
Many nice details in it’s keyhole arches, latticed screens and shuttered windows. Inside it contains many explanatory boards and some local items of weaponry as well as crockery, cushions and wall hangings.
Off again to the coast and the Port of Sumhuran, now a archeological site.
Mostly reconstructed limestone walls in the layout of the old town. Supposedly The Queen of Sheba had a palace here!
It was however the main port for trade between the Mediterranean and India, dealing mostly in frankincense.
Nice overlook across the bay below, must have been a good sheltered harbour, mostly silted up now. Distant views of flamingos.
Away again back towards Salalah.
Everywhere around the city development underway building new homes, mostly huge. many unfinished.
At almost every roundabout there was a large marquee for wedding feasts, always held on Thursday, to feed men attending the wedding, open to all men! The women attending similar festivities in a local hotel or similar, separately.
All the local Omani population receive a plot of land for free from the government! Currently six hundred square meter plots! (reduces every couple of year), most families having upwards of six children they need large houses! Omani’s also get free schooling from age 6 in schools for boys and girls, later after age 10 segregated into single sex schools. Free healthcare for all, free utilities and petrol was very very cheap.
Next stop the local Souk. Mostly selling frankincense and perfumes with a few of the shops selling local dress, dishdash’s with a tassel at the neck for perfume (these are mens robes usually white and all of one design), women’s robes/mask/head covering (usually black and of the latest design), hats, etc. etc. The Souk was located just behind a lovely white sand beach complete with wedding party and palm trees.
Then back to the ship for a well earned drink and some food!
Early sailaway, next stop Aqaba a long trip.
Afternoon trivia.
Off to the main restaurant tonight. Thought it was about time to attend and the menu had good choices.
All very pleasant table companions, a total of eight. The others had been wondering where we were, the other six of them must always attend dinner together. All a bit overwhelming and a bit of a strain.
Back to stateroom to relax quietly.
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